KS I bet you cant figure this one out

[LowRidinMexican]

Install mach door speakers,
Run RCA cable to factory amps
Splice it into the harness



The high lighted area has never lit up before, ever... until today.

[CustomDave]

Just bang on it a few times, it will probably go back out.

Maybe it was just a loose connection or something, and when you messed with the harness it moved the wiring enough to make a connection? That is my guess, even if you didn't ask for it. Does your stang really only have 53k miles on it? That is low for a car of that age.

[Oldschool]

Just bang on it a few times, it will probably go back out.

   Always work for me....

[kschilk]

Look on the back of the car.... ....the source of your problem is circled.

[LowRidinMexican]

Look on the back of the car.... ....the source of your problem is circled.

heh... i c what u did there.

why is it for every stang in the salvage yard id see 3 maros...

i have found that its isolated to one channel. so i am going to make a guess and say it has to do with that amps ground... but i think according to wiring diagram they're ground at the same place. could be ground loop? i do have my actual head unit grounded through factory ground, could be failing to ground the rcas?

also would running the mach amps odf the same pre-out (since the amps dont do left right ie one channel -> one rca plug per amp).

i am going to try different rca cables, after i inspect grounds.

i feel like my car and i are playing a metaphorical game of chess.

its also literally throwing up power steering fluid from somewhere. i see some air bubbles in the pump when i fill it. i can see something (smoke) from the hood scoope.

[LowRidinMexican]

i am not sure 100% its power steerinb fluid thats burning up, but its not oil or coolant (as i maintain fluid levels repair leaks asap with oil/coolant). it also sometimes pees out trans fluid from that rear seal on trans. i think thats due too the axle bump stop being mutalated. i never had the power steering problem till i skillfuly avoid a sevre collision with that semi. i can see power steering fluid dripping from left inner tie rod boot, but i think thats from some above. could be high pressure sending line as ps pump still smooth and only whines when low on fluid. also, may have exhaust leak at exhaust manifold. or may not. i want to remove ac, and power steering but manual rack is like 500 plus ill need alignment... gna be long day. do have to say tho, when i do need too increase my velocity, she has 0 problems. oh... also need clutch quadrant. my adjuster prawls are fd and dont catch. so not sure if clutch ever gets adjusted. but still shifts hard as fluffed porn star.

[nsbugman]

Fluid on an inner tie rod end could mean a bad seal in the rack. It will build up and drip from the boot.
Is there any chance that someone put a hex on you and your ride?

[kschilk]

Your instrument cluster is solid-state, it's one big circuit board. The instrument lights plug into the back of the circuit board and most likely, are the real tiny little buggers that come equipped with their own socket. There are usually two small metal tangs on the outside of the socket that make contact with the circuit board. After time, these tangs can lose their spring, become corroded or lose their connection by turning from vibration. Most likely, while you are taking off the cover,you jiggled the instrument head enough to restore contact to the lamp. There could also be a slight crack in the circuit board. If it was a ground issue, it should affect the entire instrument cluster.

As far as the power steering.... your pressure line should be a rubber and metal combination line. Check the crimps where the rubber and metal meet. They usually start seeping around the crimp. I also see a lot of pinholes in both the pressure and return lines. Sometimes it's hard to spot them because the hole is so small, that they just spray a fine mist. I've also run into some that would only leak when the fluid was hot and became thinner.

[67fire]

As far as the power steering.... your pressure line should be a rubber and metal combination line. Check the crimps where the rubber and metal meet. They usually start seeping around the crimp. I also see a lot of pinholes in both the pressure and return lines. Sometimes it's hard to spot them because the hole is so small, that they just spray a fine mist. I've also run into some that would only leak when the fluid was hot and became thinner.

I agree. Have someone turn the steering to full lock one way or the other, after you have cleaned the area up real good,
and the leak source should become quite apparent.

E

[LowRidinMexican]

Bro(s),

It seems easy in concept: Look for a pinche oily spot. But damn it, The i think low pressure return line (or is it the high pressure sending line???) is like... behind the thing on bottom of the other piece next to the pinche...


Its cool. I think I am going to get a new shift quadrant as I believe my prawls are f'd... My reasoning is: Clutch pedal never "clicks" when you pull up on it... EVER. Its either this clutch never wears, or the prawls are stripped. It is a tad squishy but still ok. I would ideally like it to be tight... tight like tony the tiger. baically...

[undgsx-R]

You could also get some uv dye and put in the power steering fluid

[LowRidinMexican]

eh... im not dying to know that badly.

[undgsx-R]

No pun intended right?

[kschilk]

It is easy... ...get up offa' yer a$s and look! Eric spelled it all out for ya' so listen to 'im.... ...this man knows much about that of which he speaks.

On most any fluid system, the high pressure line will be the composite (rubber/metal) type. On some, the OEM return line may also be composite but the metal section(s) will often be shorter. Even so, if you get a replacement from an auto parts store and often even the dealer, you'll likely get a $3 - $4 section of rubber fuel line and some hose clamps....prolly for around $20 - $40. On power steering, the return often clamps to a nipple on the pump while the pressure line, will attach with a hydraulic or quick-connect fitting.

When you mentioned you saw bubbles in the fluid, were they simply bubbles or was it foamy? If there were bubbles, that could be from the system self-bleeding after you added fluid and that's normal. If it was foamy, it's sucking air and you definitely have a leak. Since it's always under pressure, a small leak in the high pressure line won't usually allow it to suck air, unless the fluid gets too low. If it's real foamy, I'd look at the return line first. Rack and/or pump seal leaks can allow air in but when they're that bad, you'll usually hear it growling and you'll have a rapid loss of fluid. If there's a leak and you let it go, you can ruin both the pump and the rack. Changing racks is one of those things I'll never look back on as good times and anymore, I tend to refer most of the sh*t-jobs out.

As for the clutch adjuster, it's prolly stripped clean. According to everything I've seen...it's a non-hydraulic, "self-adjusting" type.... ... which basically means there's not a reason in hell for you to be fu*kin' with it in the first damned place..... ...unless you wanna' break it just like you done went an' did, man. Replace the adjuster AS PER MFGR'S INSTRUCTIONS, then leave it alone (insert slap-on-the-back-of-the-head smiley here)! If you have a clutch issue, messin' with the adjuster isn't gonna' fix it and only makes an accurate diagnosis of the real problem alot harder.

[LowRidinMexican]

It is easy... ...get up offa' yer a$s and look! Eric spelled it all out for ya' so listen to 'im.... ...this man knows much about that of which he speaks.

On most any fluid system, the high pressure line will be the composite (rubber/metal) type. On some, the OEM return line may also be composite but the metal section(s) will often be shorter. Even so, if you get a replacement from an auto parts store and often even the dealer, you'll likely get a $3 - $4 section of rubber fuel line and some hose clamps....prolly for around $20 - $40. On power steering, the return often clamps to a nipple on the pump while the pressure line, will attach with a hydraulic or quick-connect fitting.

When you mentioned you saw bubbles in the fluid, were they simply bubbles or was it foamy? If there were bubbles, that could be from the system self-bleeding after you added fluid and that's normal. If it was foamy, it's sucking air and you definitely have a leak. Since it's always under pressure, a small leak in the high pressure line won't usually allow it to suck air, unless the fluid gets too low. If it's real foamy, I'd look at the return line first. Rack and/or pump seal leaks can allow air in but when they're that bad, you'll usually hear it growling and you'll have a rapid loss of fluid. If there's a leak and you let it go, you can ruin both the pump and the rack. Changing racks is one of those things I'll never look back on as good times and anymore, I tend to refer most of the sh*t-jobs out.

As for the clutch adjuster, it's prolly stripped clean. According to everything I've seen...it's a non-hydraulic, "self-adjusting" type.... ... which basically means there's not a reason in hell for you to be fu*kin' with it in the first damned place..... ...unless you wanna' break it just like you done went an' did, man. Replace the adjuster AS PER MFGR'S INSTRUCTIONS, then leave it alone (insert slap-on-the-back-of-the-head smiley here)! If you have a clutch issue, messin' with the adjuster isn't gonna' fix it and only makes an accurate diagnosis of the real problem alot harder.

Mr. Guy,

Last time I checked, I lived in 'MERICA! If I want to fudge my clutch up, then I will by god do it. What I am trying to accomplish, is to adjust the how high the pedal releases, It releases to high for my tastes. So 

So I need your help KS, if you could let me know what books say the min compression should be on a 95 chevy cavliar 3.1L V6.

A friend of mine, said that a shop said he had a blown head gasket. His MIL light is on, its misfire cylinder 6. There is no white smoke or over heating, but you can say the motor idle cool, then shake for a few seconds, then run cool, for a few minutes, then it shakes for a minute or two kind of badly, then repeats the cycle. No white smoke, no indication of water in the oil. Compression of the row of cylinders, 180 - 180 - 170 <---- #6. Spark plugs look fine. New coil packs.

Then there is this Mercury Villager van, Misfires underload, runs like s**t. Cleaned his MAF nice and clean. Air filter is not super bad but kind of dirty, plugs cap and rotor are new. Bucks really hard at highway speeds. You can see the RPM gauge dip down 50-150 rpms.

It was foamy bubbles. I am sure i have a leak some where. I am noticing fluid build up right under my oil filter. Not oil. I will have to clean and inspect the pinche.

If santa reads this: I need a fuel pressure gauge ASAP dawg.